Archive for Garden Tips – Page 28

Planters Are a Designer’s Best Friend

Steel planters make a low profile for modern style landscaping in Portland

Steel planters with yucca, heather and succulents create year round color with a modern twist.

Hardscape Is A Great Addition To Your Landscaping

I use large built in planters to solve a variety of landscape problems and here are some of my favorites.

planter uses hardscape to create privacy.

This front yard planter is about creating privacy for the living room window.  Their Willamette Heights house is 12 feet from the public sidewalk and they live near a park so there’s lots of foot traffic.  Juniper Communis ‘Gold Cone’, semi dwarf Oakleaf Hydrangea Quercifolia, ‘Sykes Dwarf’, California lilac ‘Concha’ (Ceanothus) purchased as a tree form at Kinens Big Phat Plants. This is a specialty wholesale only grower who shapes his plants beautifully before selling which is why I love to purchase a focal point plant such as the California Lilac tree from him.

hardscape planter with arbor in Grant Park neighborhood

Grant Park Side Yard Privacy Planter – Anderson

This planter gets a privacy boost with an arbor which creates a visual barrier between the neighbors’ utility side yard and my client’s driveway.  The kids play in the driveway and the adults use the planter for edibles so this area has become an important part of their yard. It also adds dramatic curb appeal to the entry.  Read more

 

 

Hardy Geranium in peeled pole raised bed for dog friendly landscaping.Raleigh Hills NW Natural Backyard – The Coles

Here we use green peeled logs to make a raised beds/planter.  We wanted raised beds so the plants would be safe from the dogs (two very smart and active standard poodles) who fly through paths.  I chose the peeled logs because they fit into the woodsy Northwest natural setting of this property. I also had the specialty cedar chips laid at 6″ deep.  It’s too shady for lawn and other medium encourages fleas and doesn’t last.  It’s the perfect dog friendly solution for a shady back yard. The plants pictured are native Sword Fern and Hardy Geranium, Geranium Macrorrhizum ‘Mrs. Ingwersen’ also have a woodsy look.

 planter uses hardscape to increase the curb appeal in Grant Park neighborhood

NE Portland Entry Landscape Design for Alameda corner lot

Michaels planter – this stone planter gives us the opportunity to jazz up the curb appeal of this bungalow in NE Portland.  It’s about creating a dramatic and colorful entry experience and visually softening the foundation below the front porch. Helianthemun ‘Henfield Brilliant’ billows over the cap of the planter.

 

 

courtyard uses hardscape planters to allow easy planting area for senior livingBeaverton Condominium Patio – Knight

Here is a very modern patio and it would be nothing without these planters.  We chose planters rather than at grade planting beds because of ginormous tree roots that invaded all the planting beds.  There was no room to even dig holes for new plantings.  Gardening will be easier for my client who is approaching an age where bending down to tend the ground is a less attractive idea. Read more.

 

After photo of hardscape landscaping stone planters with privacy tree just installed Buckman Neighborhood

Tiny urban courtyard needed privacy-planters with small trees will provide it. See barely visible new vine maple trunk in center of planter.

 The Tiny Urban Courtyard Needs Privacy

My client’s 1909 house in Buckman Neighborhood fills most of his 36’ by 100’ lot. My mission?  Transform his tiny narrow utilitarian “yard” into a private sanctuary for relaxing outside.  His new planters create enough soil space to plant small screening trees that will provide privacy and ambiance for being outside in the summer.  The small trees (Acer Circinatum ‘Pacific Fire’) will be easier to walk around and easier to care for up the in planters. Read more

NE Portland home needs privacy on narrow side yard

These clear cedar wood planters are 30″ tall and 4′ wide to house a large clump of my favorite screening plant for city properties.  The plant is a clumping bamboo called Fargesia robusta ‘Campbell’ and the custom planters are beautifully crafted by Victor Vincelli, who worked with the design installer Donna Burdick of D and J Landscape Contracting.   He also built a perfect fire pit cover that acts as a table.  I’ll add a link here so you can see the final results in 2021.

Privacy solution planters for clumping bamboo in Irvington neighborhood

Donna Burdick of D and J Landscape Contracting sits on large custom privacy planter for clumping bamboo

 

If you are interested in how hardscape landscaping can be added to your garden, contact me for more information!

 

10 Things to know about landscaping your new home

Ah, the glory of a new home.  Everything is, well, so new.  So fresh.  And there’s not a chip, dent or scratch anywhere (yet).

"I hired Carol to help me make the most of every inch of my new property." Photo by Kelly Uchytil

“I hired Carol to help me make the most of every inch of my new property.” Photo by Kelly Uchytil

Outside, however, it’s another matter altogether.  With most new homes, there simply isn’t anything but dirt.  So what to do?  Well, here are my ten ideas on how to do the landscape right…so you won’t have to do it over.

1.  Hire a landscape designer to lay out the land and give it the look and feel you want.  This needn’t cost an arm and a leg (call me and be surprised), and you’ll get the over-all plan set up before you start all that digging.

2.  Plan for more drainage than you think you need for areas adjacent to driveways, patios, pathways, lawns and especially retaining walls.  Ask neighbors about standing water in winter and spring.  Find out how long standing water takes to drain and where it drains to (your yard perhaps?!)

3.  Plant some larger sized trees in your first phase so everything won’t look so puny while they spend the next five years growing into the space you’ve provided for them.

Sherry and Kelly got exactly what they wanted and more.

Sherry and Kelly got exactly what they wanted and more.

4.  Consider how long you plan to live in the house.  If it’s less than five years we often focus on the entry and front yard.  If it’s longer, then invest in a good design for the whole property that you can build on over the years.  Curb appeal sells your home.

5.  Create an oasis for privacy.  It needn’t be large, but ideally it should have some eye appeal from inside the house.  Sunny days are precious, so create a place to enjoy them.

6.  Know how you’re going to handle upkeep.  The idea of “low maintenance” can be a misnomer:  it’s easier to mow than weed.  Decisions about upkeep need to be made right along with the design.  And if you don’t want to be the gardener, make sure you have someone who will, because there is no landscape short of concrete that doesn’t require upkeep.

7.  Pay close attention to watering the first year.  Many a well-intentioned landscape has gone to ruin in the first year for lack of proper watering.  Such a waste!

8.  Avoid BDS, one of the leading killers of new plants.  What is BDS, you ask?  Bored Dog Syndrome.  It happens when Fido pulls up plants, shakes them good, and doesn’t replant them; or decides to water them with full force.  The cure?  While plants are still young, don’t let Fido out alone.  This may be a pain, but trust me, you’ll save a lot of money.

9.  Before you pave your driveway or paths, lay PVC conduit pipe underneath.  That way you can easily add irrigation or lighting later on.  PVC pipe is cheap.

10.  Soil prep is where it’s at — it’s the difference between plants that thrive instead of die.  You need soil that drains well in winter but holds moisture in summer.  Every site has different requirements, so get professional advice at the start.

Top 5 Stepable Path Plants For Portland Landscapes

North Portland Landscape Design parking strip

Becky Clark Design Thymus Praecox ‘Coccineus’ ablaze w flower in north Portland parking strip

Selecting Stepable Path Plants for Portland Landscapes

Maybe it’s not fair that most people don’t know the finer points of selecting stepable path plants.   The truth is planting between pavers successfully without insider knowledge rarely ever results in a thriving and attractive result let alone a planting that qualifies as low maintenance.   It’s a little like ‘Goldilocks and The Three Bears’, the plant has to be just right.  Remember?  The chair and the bed had to be the right size and the porridge had to be the right temperature.   If the plant you select is not right for the job,  your path or patio can have weed problems that will take a complete do over to solve.

Most people don’t want to trial and error plants. They want to know it will work before they put in their time and effort.  That is the advantage of hiring a Portland landscape designer.  We know what works here and what doesn’t.

Portland landscape designer walking on stepable plants

Step on these plants.  This keeps them growing low and dense.

Here’s how I think about selecting stepable path plants.

I want a plant that doesn’t grow higher than 1″  or 2″ tall maximum.

Many stepable plants tend to grow into a hump and must be walked on regularly to keep it from growing into a hump and being a trip hazard. Stepping on the plants frequently will cause them to grow dense and shorter.  My grandson Rain helped me plant my flagstone patio.  I  stepped away and his friend came running in and said “I keep telling him they’re stepables not stompables.”  I looked up to see my grandson stomping on the freshly planted ground covers.   Surprisingly, the plants survived just fine.

Portland Garden Design Groundcover

Leptinella = Black Brass Button stepable groundcover

I want a plant that doesn’t grow over the flagstone too quickly.

If you plant a type of stepable that grows too vigorously you will be constantly cutting the plant off of the flagstone.  Untended it will completely cover your flagstone.  A slower plant might need a trim every year or two.

What do Stepable Groundcovers Need?

Weeds are the enemy.  Prevent weeds.

Most stepable plants require good drainage in order to grow thickly and repel weeds.  If they don’t grow thickly, and have bare patches, weed seeds will be able to reach the soil, germinate and thrive.  I fertilize my patio plantings with half strength fish fertilizer several times a year to keep them growing thickly and I rake or sweep leaves and debris off the plants so they can get as much light as possible.  These actions help keep the plants growing vigorously which is another way to thwart weeds.

I’ve listed plants below for part sun and full sun.   I don’t have a stepable plant that thrives in strong shade, regardless of what the plant labels say.  I’ve tried several that manage to stay alive in dappled shade but don’t grow thick enough to repel weeds.

Another tip:  Don’t plant in an area that was infested with weeds.  You will need to tackle the weeds first before you plant your stepables.

Leptinella with star creeper

Here’s a close up of  ‘Platt’s Black’ Brass Buttons with Star Creeper.

Stepable Plants for Part Shade/Part Sun:

Leptinella squalida –  New Zealand Brass Buttons.   The variety I prefer is ‘Platt’s Black’.  The other variety of Brass Buttons I like, ‘Leptinella P. Verdigris’  is a a little fast for pavers but I have used it for paths.  I don’t grow either of these in full sun. They spread until they find an environment they don’t like.  In my patio they run into too much shade and the strong roots of sword fern and they stop there.  These are spreaders so think before planting.

Stepable Plants Portland Modern LandscapeMentha requienii –  Corsican Mint  This is a crowd pleaser because it smells good when you step on the plant.  This plant needs some sun, and needs good drainage, too much shade and soil that is too wet in the winter will kill this plant.  Full day sun is typically too much for this plant.  I’ve seen it in full sun but when I tried it, it failed.

Stepable Plants for Sun:

Elfin Pink Thyme fills in a path in Portland OregonThymus Serpyllum ‘Elfin’ or ‘Elfin Pink’  – I love this plant and it is truly a flat mat if you step on it regularly.  It does get weeds growing into the middle so it’s not maintenance free, but only garden magazines talk about maintenance free landscapes.  When it is successful you will have to cut it off of flagstones some but I find it quite manageable.

Stachys densiflora 'Alba' in full flowerStachys densiflora ‘Alba’ – Alba Lambs Ear   First of all this plant looks nothing like  the traditional cottage garden plant (silver furry leafed) Lambs Ear.  The tiny leaves are fully evergreen, dark green and leathery.

Stachys D, 'Alba' with attractive seed heads and Thymus P. 'Elfin Pink"

Seed head is a rust red and very attractive.

I love this plant because it doesn’t let weed seeds infiltrate the tight mound of leaves.  Plant it on the edges of your path or step on it every day, otherwise it will mound up.  It takes full sun easily and the long flowering period is fantastic! The seed heads that follow are interesting as well.

Stepable ground cover in Irvington neighborhood, Portland, Oregon

Cushion Bolax ‘Nana’ – Emerald Cushion is my favorite stepable for sun.

My Favorite Stepable Plant

Azorella Trifurcata ‘Nana’ – Cushion Bolax   I have this plant at my vacation house in full morning sun (so 4 hours) and it will take full day sun as well.  It occasionally has a dandelion sprout in the middle, but other pesky weeds don’t invade.  I find it to be very low maintenance and perfect for a place I only visit every month or two.   It will creep over your pavers so plan to trim once every year or two.  It’s my favorite filler plant for pavers, paths and as a foreground plant in a planting bed.

My dog Barley looking at freshly planted Cushion Bolax ground cover.

My dog Barley looking at freshly planted Cushion Bolax.

I love the texture.  It goes through a change where the little needles feel like a plastic carpet (which sounds bad but is fun) and then it softens into a ‘pettable’ surface.  The yellow flowers are tiny fat buttons and cute.

Let’s work together and get you off to a great start

Are you looking for a Portland landscape designer who knows what plants and materials will work in your landscape?  We know how to put it all together and get you on the path to your new attractive and manageable landscape.   Contact us and let’s create together.

Garlic Mustard

Garlic mustard 2

The first year leaf of garlic mustard (typically called the leaf rosettes).

What is garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata)?  This cool-season biennial’s leaves and stems emit the smell of garlic or onion when crushed.  Plants are 12 to 48 inches in height, and in their second year, produce numerous white flowers with four separate petals.  Garlic mustard is the only plant of this height in the woods with white flowers in May.  Hand pulling before flowering is recommended.  It is believed to have been brought to North America by European settlers for use in cooking and medicine.

Here is the link to a brochure created by the Oregon Department of Agriculture:  http://www.oregon.gov/ODA/shared/Documents/Publications/Weeds/GarlicMustardBrochure.pdf

How does it spread?  This weed spreads exclusively by seed.  The plant exudes a toxin from its roots into the surrounding soil and kills off competing seeds (the allopathic substance actually prevents germination of any seeds except its own!).  It also stunts the growth of nearby plants.  English Ivy in all its evil glory can’t hold a candle to this marauder.  It’s clearing the way so this plant can take the next area over.

Why it’s bad, very bad:  The concern surrounding garlic mustard comes from its ability to aggressively invade a woodland community and displace the native plant community to include grasses, shrubs, perennials, and tree seedlings.

weed-clipart-A_Little_Girl_Pulling_Weeds_Royalty_Free_Clipart_Picture_081111-152171-530047How to remove it:  Mowing is not an effective control because plants will still bolt and seed.  Mowing spreads garlic mustard seed like wildfire – do not mow when seed pods are present (May through September).  Hand pulling the weed is easiest during early bolt (2nd year).  Difficult during rosette stage (first year) except for small patches.  Multiple years are needed to exhaust seed bank.  Pull at base to avoid breaking stem.  All pulled plants should be bagged and removed from site (seed will set and/or plant will  re-root).

Garlic mustard mature

Mature garlic mustard

If you must use chemicals, use a product that contains glyphosate or Tricloypr.  To avoid damaging native forbs, spray the rosette stage during late winter/early spring.  If not sure how to identify rosette stage, you can spray during flowering.  Fall application to the rosettes (after some rain evens so plants are growing again) may also be effective.  Sprays at height of summer will not do much.  Use aquatic formulations when spraying near any body of water.  A combination of chemical and hand pulling is very effective – pulling bolted plants and spraying right after pulling.

I am not suggesting growing it for cooking, but while eradicating it from your property, you could get even with it by making a very tasty pesto from the leaves.  Here’s just one recipe I found on line:  http://www.mnn.com/food/recipes/photos/6-edible-invasive-species-recipes/garlic-mustard-pesto

Lace Bug Update

Azalea Lace Bug damageLast year I wrote a blog about a serious new insect problem for landscapes in the Pacific Northwest. It was serious because rhododendrons and azaleas make up a large percentage of the plants in most gardeners landscape. The easy way to control the insect was with a systemic pesticide that harms bees.  Many people were talking about removing all their susceptible plants rather than harm bees.

Here’s my latest report and what you can do to save your plants without killing bees:

Save bees and your azaleas and rhododendrons. How big a problem?
I have visited over thirty client landscapes in the Portland area since February – all the gardens but two had moderate to severe lace bug damage on rhodies and azaleas.  I was already expecting the 2015 lace bug plant damage to be a huge problem for my clients. Robin Rosetta, Associate Professor, Extension Entomologist, OSU says the lace bug hatch is a full month early.  This is very bad news unless you are prepared to start treating your plants now in mid-to-late April and early May.

Lace bug eggs waiting to hatch.  Photo by Robin Rosetta.

Lace bug eggs waiting to hatch. Photo by Robin Rosetta.

Strong blasts of water should be applied to the back of the leaves to damage the wings of the lace bug while it is in its soft nymph stage.  It can be a little difficult to hold your leaves steady to spray the back side, especially if it is a large rhododendron.  Portland Nursery has something called a Bug Blaster Head for your hose.  It’s easier to use and has a safer pressure for your plants’ leaves.  It also has a wand attachment that would make it possible to treat a large rhododendron.

Insecticidal soaps applied to the back of the leaves will also damage the lace bug nymph. These two methods are effective only while the nymph is soft.  Once it turns into an adult, soaps won’t work and water spray will not remove embedded eggs.

Green-Lacewing March Biological

Green-Lacewing March Biological

This may get confusing because the bad bugs that damage your plants are called lace bugs.  I’m about to introduce you to a good bug that eats the bad bug. The good bugs are called green lace wings.  If you don’t want to spray your plants because they are too big, there are too many plants or you want to work toward a long term solution; you need to purchase green lace wing larvae from March Biological  or go to Portland Nursery to order through them.  The green lace wing will eat the newly hatched lace bug and prevent the lace bug population from exploding.  Getting green lace wings in a high population in your garden will help with the next one or two lace bug hatchings that we expect this year.  My friend, Phil Thornburg, from Winterbloom has successfully diminished his damaging lace bug population. It took him a couple of years but he did it by applying green lace wings instead of pesticides.

Plants in full sun seem to be the most damaged from lace bug.
Basically they are stealing the green right out of the plants’ leaves and laying eggs that will hatch in another month adding insult to your already damaged plant.  Remember to water your rhododendron and azaleas regularly this summer –  they will need the extra support.

Question: What does lace bug on my rhododendrons have to do with bee colony collapse disorder?

Rhody Lutea March 2015 treated with bee killing spray

Rhododendron ‘Lutea’ in my client’s garden without any damage.  A rare occurrence.

Answer:  Systemic drenches often contain imidacloprid. It’s popular because it’s easy, the chemical is suppose to be safer for mammals (so humans, rats, bats are pretty safe) but the spray will harm or kill bees or any insects who feed on the plant.  For months afterwards bees take it back to the hive with the pollen so it’s not just harming one bee – it’s harming the colony.

The time to treat your plants without harming the bees is now!